Roadtrip New Zealand

We woke yesterday morning to steady drizzle, as forecast. We were not worried though because our plan for a late checkout to catch the fine periods in the afternoon looked like it was coming to fruition. One thing I’d like to ask the Sherwood Manor and all other hotels that close breakfast at 9am, is why? I cannot fathom why places think no one will want breakfast after this time, especially when on holiday! The drizzle lightened considerably and at 11:30 we left and headed into Queenstown for a look.

Queenstown is a stunning city, very compact and set at the base of some magical hills. There is a very impressive gondola heading straight up the middle of one of the nearest, which looks like a scar up the centre of its forest lined slope. It would be a very enjoyable ride. We had other things on our mind however, and popped into the Pig & Whistle for an early lunch. I purchased the most value for money meal we’ve had the entire trip, a Bangers & Mash for $7.00! Myra stuck with the full English, and both were brilliant. The service is great and the food spot on. After that we sent some items home via the very busy post shop, then restocked on some toiletries from the local chemist before it was time to head off.

It was a very slow trip out of Queenstown because of an accident up ahead. It was our first mishap we’ve seen this whole time, and it looked rather minor so fingers crossed we stay clear of anymore. Once past this the traffic evaporated and it was open roads again. Initially we thought we were in for another decent beating from the wind, but after roughly thirty minutes it had either disappeared or we were riding through the local mountain ranges where it was unable to get to us in force. By this time the rain had fully disappeared, the roads were dry and we were in for a fantastic treat up the hill on one of the best rides yet to Coronet Peak. I hadn’t really heard about this ride before so was completely unaware of what we would encounter, it really has to be ridden to be believed. You travel up some steep countryside through several 15km/h switchbacks, there are no side rails so a mistake will see you at the bottom again in a hurry, and this adds greatly to the experience. Once you get to the apex you travel at pace through magnificent rolling roads that are laced between massive vertical faces of rock that could give the claustrophobics among us some cause for concern. I loved every minute of this ride, and unfortunately was very reluctant to stop so we again missed some magical photo ops.

On to Lake Wanaka and I was still having a great time. Myra reminded me we should stop soon so we pulled into a rest stop that was bustled right up to the shore. This is another southern scenic gem; the rock lined coast was bearing the brunt of a lake whipped into a raging froth by a gale that was apparent down here. The wind was fierce at the waters edge, and we were very happy it was not being funneled up to the road.

We could see further on the weather looked like it was going to pack up, the clouds were very heavy and low, but with misplaced optimism I kept my summer gloves on and neglected to do up all my zips. This would mean some wrinkled hands and damp neck by the time we pulled into Haast, but it was of no significance when compared to the scenery we were subjected to as we rode through Mt Aspiring National Park in teeming rain. After the struggles of yesterday we were not fazed by the rain, and the tree lined roads with waterfalls overhead and many river crossing bridges to go through, we were both in awe. It really is a special place here where you would have to be blind to not find something along the journey to not help you put your place in this universe into perspective. To be honest the rain may have been a blessing, I really think it added to the route through the forest, even though it completely ruined the effectiveness of our late checkout plan!

We arrived in Haast in one piece, and fairly dry. After checking in and a hot shower, which I have to rate as second only to the one in Blenheim, we were all ready for a relaxing beer in the bar watching local favourite Coronation St on the 50” television. After this was a three course meal in the restaurant which was fairly expensive and only average food wise, but filled the spot and was just what we needed after a long day on the road.

We slept well last night too, the bed nice and comfortable. The weather today was stunning, hardly a cloud in the sky and I started the day taking some photographs of the magnificent Stags I discovered in the paddock next door. They had a full head of antlers and looked like they could deal to me with a flick of a head, so it was with great respect I treaded, and I made sure I stayed on my own side of the fence.

We had overestimated the size of Haast, so were at a loss of what to do after breakfast in the café at the lodge. We went for a ride to the Haast Township but this is misleading, as the town is maybe two eating establishments and a large dairy masquerading as a supermarket. We’d finished the tour in about two minutes, so decided to head the 7kms to Haast Beach. Once we arrived here the road looked so inviting we just kept on going to Jackson Bay. The trees encroach so much onto the road on this trip that you feel you are riding through a tunnel at times. There are kilometers of dead straight road and finally you break through to some coastal turns that lead you to the end of the road, Jackson Bay. This is a great place to stop, and only half an hour before we were there some yellow eyed penguins had been on shore we were told. The view is peaceful and we spent some time just relaxing and sitting on the pancake shaped rocks that litter the bay.

I had been very optimistic in my fuel watching and it was with some concern we headed the 50 kilometers back to the nearest petrol station. We were well into the reserve by the time we pulled into the Caltex with some relief, and paid nearly $2 a litre for the privilege.

A quick jug of Macs Gold at the Antler Bar and then with the sun still shining we picked up a six pack at the local shop and headed back to the lodge to enjoy the last hour of cricket on the telly and to relax while we waited for tea. It’s been a lovely day, and we’ve been treated again to some of the south islands wonderful rides. I will have to wait until we’ve finished the trip and spent some time reflecting on the various legs before I can truly call a favourite, but Queenstown to Haast has to be a strong contender. It really is a ride that puts to rest any doubt as to why you ride a bike. You would enjoy it in any vehicle, but the roads here seem tailor made for the motorcylist, with a little bit of everything to keep you honest and hone your craft. Pure bliss really.

Tomorrow we are up to Hokitika. I know nothing about this place apart from a vague recollection it was in the McDonalds song a few years ago. It looks great in the accommodation guide we have, and we’ve found a place with free high speed internet and motorbike garaging for the night, 5 minutes from the beach. If the weather is like today, an ocean swim could even be in order.